Friday, 26 October 2012
Thursday, 25 October 2012
Just Blaze - Crate Diggers
In this episode Just Blaze, the producer behind Jay-Z's "Public Service
Announcement" and Kanye West's "Touch the Sky", talks about key samples
that inspired "The Black Album", a fateful story about Aaliyah and the
best lesson he learned from DJ Jazzy Jeff.
Crate Diggers profiles people with extraordinary vinyl record collections, with owners displaying and telling the stories behind their collections.
Crate Diggers profiles people with extraordinary vinyl record collections, with owners displaying and telling the stories behind their collections.
See all of the Crate Diggers: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0DA2B4BAA4791B0F
Sunday, 21 October 2012
Martin Margiela
ON Monday night at Martin Margiela’s
runway show, an event that marked the 20th anniversary of one of the
most influential and enigmatic designers on the global fashion stage
with a collection based on the highlights of his career, Mr. Margiela,
as is his custom, was nowhere to be seen.
An anomaly in an industry that places enormous value on the image and
accessibility of its personalities, Mr. Margiela has maintained an
astonishing elusiveness. He refuses to grant face-to-face interviews and
has rarely been photographed, a provocative stance intended to
emphasize two dogmatic principles: first, that Mr. Margiela’s designs,
as confounding as they may be, should speak for themselves; and, second,
that the work he shows is inherently the product of a collaborative
team, not one person.
Hence, he does not take a bow at his shows, and all correspondence from
his atelier here is traditionally written in the plural form with the
signature “Maison Martin Margiela.”
This policy has led Mr. Margiela to be called fashion’s invisible man.
His influence, perhaps as great as that of any living designer, is less
often questioned than is his very existence.
Over the last year, however, the significance of Mr. Margiela as a
living, breathing person — albeit ultimately unknowable — has taken on a
new dimension. He has told colleagues that he wants to stop designing
and that he has begun a search for his successor at the house.
Early this year, Mr. Margiela, 51, approached Raf Simons, another well-regarded Belgian designer who at the time was renegotiating his contract with Jil Sander,
proposing that Mr. Simons take over the collection, according to
associates of the designers. But nothing came of the conversation, and
this fall Mr. Simons agreed to a three-year contract renewal with Jil
Sander.
On Monday, Renzo Rosso, the chief executive of Diesel Group, which
acquired Margiela’s business in 2002, added to the speculation that Mr.
Margiela had not been involved in recent collections when The
International Herald Tribune published this quotation from him: “We are
very happy with Martin, but for a long time he has a strong team and
does not work on the collection, just special projects.”
After the show on Monday, Mr. Rosso would not clarify Mr. Margiela’s
role, but said that the company was working with a headhunter to find a
designer “to complete our team.” Asked if Mr. Margiela was leaving, he
said: “Never say never, but I cannot imagine. I love him.”
Mr. Margiela’s importance was obvious at the anniversary show, which
included renditions of his great and witty conceptual designs: coats
made of synthetic wigs, bodysuits that fused parts of trench coats and
tuxedo jackets, and mirrored tights made to look like disco balls. But
his impact is even more obvious on the designers he has influenced,
including Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen and everyone else who showed pointed shoulders this season. Azzedine Alaïa recently called Mr. Margiela the last individual vision.
A graduate of Belgium’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and a former assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier
in Paris, Mr. Margiela was among a group of designers from Antwerp who
caused a shift in fashion in the late ’80s by tearing apart and
reassembling garments at the seams, introducing techniques that would
have a lasting impact on everything from streetwear to haute couture.
The acceptability of shredded jeans, for example, owes a debt to Mr.
Margiela. But he has worked with such anonymity that only dedicated
fashion consumers instantly recognize his name.
“Martin’s influence in fashion has been quite vast,” said Kaat Debo, the
artistic director of the ModeMuseum, or MoMu, in Antwerp, where a
retrospective of Mr. Margiela’s work opened this month. “Often what you
see in the mainstream today is something that Martin introduced 20 years
ago, and in a shocking way. For example, the showing of unfinished
clothes with frayed hems or seams on the outside, which he did years
ago, are things today that are seen as quite normal.”
Mr. Margiela’s runway shows have been alternately electrifying or
humorous or sexy or just plain weird, as when he introduced a hooflike
shoe in 1992 that has since become a Margiela signature. More recently,
he presented a pair of $600 sunglasses that look like a censor bar. He
has shown coats reconstructed with a sock at the elbow or sleeves
protruding from the front and back; jackets with the sleeves turned
inside out into capes; and, in 1994, an entire collection based on what
Barbie’s wardrobe would look like if it were blown up to life size. (click)
Scott Mckenzie
Depression is not a sign of weakness, it is a sign that you have been trying to be strong for too long.
It doesn't matter if you Don't know anybody... you just gotta become that guy, that others wanna know.
It doesn't matter if you Don't know anybody... you just gotta become that guy, that others wanna know.
Thursday, 18 October 2012
With his eponymous store on 125th Street in Harlem, Dapper Dan pioneered
streetwear in the early 1980s by co-opting luxury branding from the
likes of Louis Vuitton and MCM and designing original menswear with
high-end detail—including exquisite leathers, furs, and skins. First
drawing neighborhood hustlers and friends, Dan eventually outfitted
rappers and other celebs of the time, such as Eric B & Rakim and
Mike Tyson, to name a few. Now, nearly thirty years after entering the
clothing game, Dan is plotting his return to the public eye. The
reclusive designer recently sat down with Life +Times to discuss his
career—alongside childhood friend Pee Wee Kirkland—retracing Harlem
history in the process.
Tuesday, 2 October 2012
Custom All-Black Vintage Rolex Watches
http://www.freshnessmag.com/2012/09/28/black-limited-edition-custom-all-black-vintage-rolex-watches/
Monday, 1 October 2012
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