With a failing global economy and an increase on “fast retail” where the
focus lies more on cost over quality, many fashion enthusiasts are
questioning labels, their prices and ultimately their products. Japan
has always been known for their high standards, but unfortunately is no
exception to the aforementioned doubts. So does the country have
justification for what they put out, or will we see an end to “high
fashion” from the Far East? There are a few underlying factors and
examples that may help shed some light to this matter.
Material
Artisans from yesteryear Japan were synonymous with handcrafted,
exquisite detailing in their fashion and general lifestyle, and such
aspects are commonly found in modern day apparel. The details are
further supported by the use of rare and delicate materials, fusing
function and fashion together for the end-consumer. Many are already
familiar with the use of leather from cowhide, but the Japanese have
consistently found the fabric from more unorthodox animals; luxury
streetwear fashion brand visvim has often used the rigid texture from
deer, elk and even antelope. Cattle leather may seem commonplace, but
the treatment of such a raw material may differ in Japan from the rest
of the world, utilizing exotic oils and chemicals to help set them apart
from what people may initially perceive. Aside from the material and
the process, one must also remember the before and after of leather use
into the equation – it is often forgotten that such animals may be hard
to find and acquire, the raw material must be maintained properly during
the process, and afterwards must undergo intense testing to pass all
quality control standards, of which may take more time and consideration
for rare materials not often used due to their lack of documentation.
Production and Manufacturing
The workers within the production line may not be what most expect – a
conveyor belt of uninterested, mindless drones whose goal is to execute
one single task over and over again until their shift ends. Americana
relic experts The Real McCoy’s production room is comprised of young,
energetic, knowledgeable workers, free to think on their own and
indifferent to the desperation of a minimum wage salary. They work under
a direct connection to the company, either as generation clothiers or
simply fans of the brand. It may seem trivial, but a 26-year-old
Japanese native with a respect for local brands will always have a
sharper image of what they are doing in fashion over an immigrant in
their 40s or 50s perhaps sending paychecks home for their child’s
schooling. A younger eye and unweathered hand working at their own pace
will be able to notice a missed stitched or misaligned eyelet long
before a factory worker ever could. And while this methodology may
produce a smaller amount of units per season, the quality surely makes
up for it and, ironically, may end up selling a higher percentage of the
product in the end.
Wholesaling and Pricing
Most are unaware of the wholesale system in Japan and how it actually
differs from other markets. An inside source gives insight into how,
for starters, conventionally it is the buyers that set the retail price
margins on their own prior to purchasing. Japanese fashion brands
however set their own retail prices under guidelines found in fear
marketing. This skews the profit margins greatly and cannot be compared
with international finance. For instance, wholesale prices of 50%-60% of
retail pricing is considered common, with certain discounts naturally
depending on order amount or sheer quantity. Most brands however delve
even lower, with wholesale prices reaching as low as 25%-35% of the
item’s “in-store to the customer” price. This would ultimately break
down to approximately 30% of the sale going to cost of the garment, 30%
to the brand, and 40% to the store. Furthermore, the production affects
pricing as well – traditionally the big brands’ method of production is
purely in-house, while Japanese independent brands hire outside agents
to aid in aspects such as pattern-making, production management and so
on. Outside hire not only benefits the brand with unique styling that
may differ season to season, but also requires independent salaries and a
higher overall budget. Material procurement is also a factor, where
Japanese brands produce zippers, cloth and buttons originally rather
than source from other countries. A relative lack of trade show
attendance solidifies this point; most Western brands visit such events
as Premiere Vision in Paris on an annual basis to assemble their
collections. Finally, one must keep in mind that the wages for workers
in Japan is incomparable to those of Chinese or Indian workers, which in
the end again goes into cost.
Customer Service
While Western patrons may not take notice of the shop they’re in,
consumers in Japan tend to take their shopping experience a little more
seriously. You’ll often find features in a boutique available that may
not seem obvious or conventional, but are certainly appreciated. One
retail outlet of considerable mention is A Bathing Ape, notoriously
known for their finite details in their products but also in their
retail locations. Exclusively constructed by famed design firm
Wonderwall, their use of aluminum and concrete is only the tip of the
iceberg in the appeal of the BAPE STORE chain. Keen eyes will notice the
camo-embossed leather sofas, Ape Heads seared into the hangers,
custom-made amenities like receipt holders and credit card trays,
jaw-dropping displays of excess, etc. While all of this may seem
unnecessary, customers find themselves visiting, returning and even
traveling to new shops simply to experience the atmosphere. To further
support the shopping, customers are treated with services not available
outside of Japan, such as loyalty cards, item transfers from store to
store, and on occasion even free delivery. Subscribers to BAPE MANIA, an
exclusive annual membership loyalty program, are given special deals
and exclusive gifts sent to them in the mail, plus a select number of
“Premium Days” in the year where they can enjoy discounts on a large
number of items.
It’s impossible to calculate exactly what goes into the cost of each and
every brands’ premium products released, but consumers must remember
there are multiple factors that must be considered. Companies like
Uniqlo and H&M are certainly disrupting the natural order of things
in fashion and style previously dominated by runway traditionalists and
exotic clothiers. The future of fashion will not be as clear cut as many
feel — either a defined path towards fast retail or a return to
handmade craftsmanship and quality. What the future fashion scene will
see is more collaborative efforts between these two options and
hopefully a balance between the two will emerge, offering yet another
alternative to choose from.
